“Much more than GG”: a study of the economic subfield of plus-size fashion in Brazil

Abstract

During the period investigated, between 2023 and 2024, the plus-size clothing segment was experiencing growth within the economic field of fashion. This article presents the results of a study conducted at the Feira do Pop Plus in São Paulo, with the aim of understanding the social logic behind the formation of the plus-size fashion subfield in Brazil. The research adopts a Bourdieusian approach, understanding markets as economic fields and plus-size fashion as a relatively autonomous subfield. The methods employed included a literature review, participant observation at the 2023 and 2024 editions of the fair, interviews, a questionnaire administered to 26 store owners, descriptive analysis, and Multiple Correspondence Analysis. In this article, the MCA graphs are not reproduced; their results are presented alongside field observations and photographs. It is concluded that the construction and growth of this subfield stem not only from the need for brands that sell plus-size garments but also from changes in cultural norms. The subfield derives its legitimacy from the meanings that clothing holds for those who sell it and those who consume it, bringing together economic, aesthetic, and ethical factors. Location differentiates the agents, while bodily aspects—particularly the presence of plus-size women—bring them together.